Fashion: ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20 e-Europe kanye Russia

Ngo zenzeka ekhulwini lamashumi amabili kungeniswe ngentuthuko eziningi eziye zenziwa eziningi eziye zatholwa eyagcina waphenduka izwe. Ngathinteka futhi imfashini. Ngenxa izenzakalo sonke silapha osukwini lwethu ukubona abesifazane egqoke ibhulukwe futhi ukugeza amasudi ukuthi yake impermissible ngokuphelele, kodwa kuyathakazelisa ukuthi "linemibhikisho" nemfashini ezenzeka esikhathini esithile ngasekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20?

Izici fashion ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20

Ngasekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20 bahlala izici ezifanayo yemfashini, njengoba ngasekupheleni kwekhulu le-19. Izingubo abesifazane kwakungeyona elula kakhulu. Ngalesi sikhathi amantombazane babegqoka izingubo phansi, imfashini zazisekhona izigqoko okusezingeni eliphezulu kanye zezinwele, esindayo noboya amajazi. Ladies kuya ngasekuqaleni kwekhulu zazisekhona ongaphakeme corsets ungakhululekile, okungase ukufinyelela 45 amasentimitha e girth okhalweni bese sikwazi onakalise impilo, okuyinto kwaba isizathu sokugcina phambi ukwenqatshwa ephelele le mfanelo ingubo. Kwakudingekile ukushintsha into, futhi ngesikhathi isikhathi izinguquko eziningi fashion waqala ukuthatha indawo.
Iminyaka bokuqala kwekhulu lama-20 wawusanamathele Echoes of the ngasekupheleni kwekhulu odlule. Abaklami baye balandela Art Nouveau isitayela, owawengame ubuciko. Owesifazane owayebonakala emkhulu besifazane, Airy ekudalweni neprizemlennoe.

fashion yabesifazane yasekuqaleni kwekhulu le-20

Nokho abanye ezintsha kwaqala ukuvela ekuqaleni ngo-1900. Uma ngaphambili abesifazane babegqoka izingubo ezimise-A ngefomu, kule minyaka eyishumi yokuqala bayetha kwathathelwa indawo efaneleka kakhulu emathangazini izingubo. A corsets ungakhululekile ithathelwe indawo ephansi okhalweni corsets lokuqala ezithambile okhalweni okusezingeni eliphezulu, bese wayeka esetshenziswa ngokuphelele. Futhi ngaphambi 1906 yayithandwa kakhulu ububanzi imikhono phezulu ukuthi yayizovela bafike endololwaneni futhi esihlakaleni. Lezi zinguquko ngenkathi lashintsha ukubukeka abesifazane.

imfashini eside kakhulu "hourglass", eyayihlanganisa ezinqulwini aluhlaza, okhalweni ewumngcingo kakhulu futhi esifubeni elanele, okuyinto uhlobo owesifazane nokuzama ukuyifinyelela ngosizo izingubo, imfashini washintsha a ngalé ngaphezulu "square" futhi lula. Esingesihle, futhi ngezinye izikhathi benza imihlatshelo ubuhle, salandelwa isikhathi ngasinye usizo nenduduzo, ngakho nengxenye enhle lesintu wahlangana emisha nge ukwesekwa ngokuphelele futhi isithakazelo. Engxenyeni eshumini lesibili, emva ukunyamalala corset okhalweni kugcizelelwe kuze kudabuke umhlane. Floor sobude igqoka saba iqakala.

Abaklami baye kakhulu lula ngalé kwezindaba izingubo kwabesifazane, okwenza kube ngqo ngaphezulu. Izingubo bathunga kakade nge okhalweni olubanzi noma nepritalennymi ngokuphelele.

Kwaba nezemidlalo ethandwa, okwakuwuphawu igqoka ukhululekile yezinhlobo ezahlukene umsebenzi. Kwakuqala ukwanda yayo njengoba isithuthuthu umgubuzelo ezigugile uma ushayela imoto, futhi isigqoko-boater sokuhamba ngebhayisikili, ithenisi, nokuningi.

izesekeli

imfashini eshintshiwe nezikhwama. Ekuqaleni kwekhulu namanje egqoka izikhwama ezincane, kodwa ngemva kweminyaka embalwa ziye zaba ngaphezulu futhi capacious ngaphezulu.

Ukugcizelela okukhulu yafakwa ngesimo isigqoko. Ladies abathanda ukugqoka imodeli ngenhloso komphetho ububanzi nge ezihlukahlukene imihlobiso ngesimo izimpaphe, kuze kudabuke umhlane, ubuhlalu. Hat - nesisekeli ebalulekile fashionista. Ekupheleni kwekhulu kwaba fashion isigqoko nge ensimbi alenga phansi amasimu, ukuvala ubuso kancane. Izicathulo kwaba emincane izithende ongaphakeme futhi ehlotshiswe kudabuke ehlukahlukene izinkinobho.

Ubucwebe futhi kwavele izinguquko: imiklamo eyinkimbinkimbi kwathathelwa indawo surface bushelelezi, amatshe ayigugu kwathathelwa indawo ngamatshe lulwimi eziyigugu kanye koqweqwe lwawo, zobumba zaqala ukusetshenziswa kaningi. Ngamanye amazwi, ubucwebe babé lula futhi esivaliwe ngaphezulu.

Izinwele kanye izimonyo

Ngendlela kwaba pallor ahlukile, okuyinto abesifazane uzame ukugcizelela ngangokunokwenzeka usebenzisa ubhuqu isikhumba mhlophe ezintweni ezihlukahlukene (isib kalamula). Makeup isicelo okungenani. Lipsticks esetshenziswa, kodwa umbala kwakufanele abe ngempela dim. Amehlo egqanyisiwe esincane isithunzi. Bright ukwakheka sasibhekwa njengophawu lokuthi ifomu embi.

Ingabe kwekhanda imfashini kakhulu ngokuthi "eMarseilles wave" olwavela nge Marseille Grato. Ngosizo nezizenze ashisayo kwenziwe ngokucophelela ngiyontengantenga izinwele.

Ngenxa buthule cinema isitayela haircuts iDemo langena ngo-1909, futhi udumo lwawo oye waqhubeka isikhathi eside ngenxa kweMpi Yezwe Yokuqala, lapho abesifazane, ukusiza abalimele ezibhedlela wayengeke asonge izandla anakekele izinwele zabo.

Ukuqala leminyaka elidlule wanika emhlabeni manje yibo bonke zezinwele - ". Weta" "square" futhi

Kodwa izinwele ezinde kwaba imfashini par iDemo. Amantombazane amthanda izinwele esilazayo (ngqo noma abacaphuni) zihlangana khona ifindo ngemuva.

imfashini Wezingane

La mantombazane ke babegqoka izingubo kwamadolo yohlobo ukuthi we abesifazane omdala abawuqedayo kakhulu yabo okusikhumbuza nightgowns. Ukuze kube lula, imidlalo yabonakala izindololwane emikhonweni ingubo. Futhi njengoba izicathulo ezigugile nezicathulo ezimnyama noma amabhuzu nge izinkinobho noma okuqoqiwe lace.

Ayefaka amasokisi kusengutsheni yoboya noma amasokisi namagilavu.

fashion madoda

Kodwa izingubo zabesilisa akukho izinguquko eziphawulekayo. Yayisalokhu ngoludala futhi ukhululekile ukugqoka. Amadoda ayegqoka ibhulukwe, amajazi, elingenamikhono eside ukuthi sikhona yonke indawo, ngisho izinsuku zethu. Elikhulu iqakala-eside elingenamikhono kwezilwane noboya, okuyinto evame ukugqokwa ebusika for the isigamu kwekhulu le-19 yesibili, izimfashini okuyiwona wahambisana naleli "igolide imfiva", futhi emfashinini.

izenzakalo zamasiko nezombusazwe bafakwa amajazi, tuxedos, izimvemvane.

Ngalo mqondo, amaNgisi iKing Edward 7 ngalezo zikhathi kwakubhekwa njengesibusiso isithonjana isitayela fashion madoda yasekuqaleni kwekhulu le-20. Kusolwa ukuthi wethula fashion imicibisholo ku ibhulukwe lakhe futhi tuck.

Kuyaphawuleka ukuthi izingubo ngalé isibe jikelele wonke amakilasi: ukuthi abasebenzi ukuthi ngoba abacebile. Kodwa, ngendlela efanele, kuhluke izinga kuphela izingubo izindwangu kanye evumelanisa.

Ngendlela wahlala izigqoko amasilinda, kodwa beze izimfanelo zomuntu ebhodweni okuthiwa, okwakubekelwa ukugqokwa kanye izingubo kwansuku zonke.

Izinwele agundwe amadoda ikakhulukazi iDemo. Beard futhi amadevu babe nesilevu kuphela sheared ezingaphezu kuka round, ngenkathi, ngemuva nje kokuthi Ivame ukwenziwa oyingozi.

"Haute Couture"

Eyishumi yokuqala futhi izimbali enkulu okuthiwa waseParis labangela ukuqala komkhakha 'Haute Couture ", okuyinto yasakazwa kulo lonke elaseYurophu. Ingabe baba omagazini fashion ethandwa, amakhadi waqala ukuba ikhishwe ngale ndaba. nemibukiso abahlukahlukene nokuboniswa kwathathelwa indawo ngamunye ngamunye.

Paris futhi kuze kube namuhla ubhekwa inhlokodolobha fashion, kodwa kwaba kakade eminyakeni eyikhulu!

I couturier enkulu

Zhak Duse wayefuna ukuba umdwebi, kodwa uma abazali eshona, esisizuze ngefa lidlule kunjalo ukudayisa izingubo zangaphansi. Ngakho, ukuzihlanganisa yedwa umzimba, ekuqaleni kwekhulu leminyaka eledlule ukuthi uphinde uzalwe lokhu watalwa ukukhiqizwa e kakhulu fashion house enkulu e-Paris, futhi sibonga kuye, izwe eseliye labhekana nalo eziningi izingubo amahle. Kuwusizo nokucabangela kakhulu ukuba abe abaklami abadumile ezifana Pol Puare futhi Madeleine Vionnet.

A umnikelo obalulekile emlandweni imfashini ukwenze yangaphambili abadayisi izambulela - sekushiwo Pol Puare, kamuva owaba umklami okukhulu. Nguye igqoka lula ngokususa kubo petticoat futhi corset-ulwelwesi. Futhi lokho, wafinyeza umphetho emaqakaleni zakhe. UMklami futhi wanezelwa kakhulu izingubo, ngoba kuye yena nabo bonke ngokwesikhundla salo njengeLungu hhayi kuhluke ukwehluka. Pol Puare ukhiphe iqoqo amajazi isitayela Slavic, okuyinto engafani ezihlukile futhi ubuhle amaphethini, imihlobiso.

Zhanna Paken - the couturier lokuqala zesifazane. Yena kanye nomyeni wakhe Isidor Paken wadala indlu fashion, okuyinto siye saphumelela ngendlela ephawulekayo. Izingubo zababusi izintokazi amaqoqo wakhe emhlabeni wonke.

imfashini Russian of kwekhulu lama-20

Kwenzekani izingubo emhlabeni lenqaba isikhathi? fashion yabesifazane ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20, iRussia ngaphansi kwethonya abalulekile Art Nouveau isitayela wonke yabekwa cishe izinguquko efanayo e-Europe. Futhi ushintshe ngalé nge okhalweni ewumngcingo, kodwa amabele omangalisayo, unxande ngaphezulu, futhi efaneleka kakhulu.

Kwakumelwe omagazini fashion ethandwa, ezifana "imfashini yamuva", "Paris imfashini". Ayemaningi ngisho eyaziwa fashion house Russian. Kukhona izithombe eziningi ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20. Fashion eMbusweni isiRashiya kwakuwulimi sikhambisana imfashini emhlabeni.

Kodwa ngalé kwethonya European, yemfashini Russian kakhulu obala Japanese ngenxa yempi Russian-Japanese. Lena kwaphawuleka ngokukhethekile isitayela ozinikezele ababezama ukudala ngokusebenzisa izinwele lakhe ekhanda lakhe okusezingeni eliphezulu omangalisayo ekhuphuka uhlobo alungise izinwele Japanese geisha.

Enye fashion yabesifazane Russian zihluke European ezihlukahlukene ngokucace nakakhulu imibala. Izingubo babe anemibala ngokwanele, njengoba kuqhathaniswa imibala ongaphakeme-key izingubo European. Kwakumelwe futhi babekezelele imihlobiso ezingaphezu kuka eNtshonalanga. Izingubo kungaba sheathe esiphambanweni, efekethisiwe, eziningi lace nabanye abaningi.

Fur wahlala ethandwa. Ladies ebusika evame ukugqokwa bamba.

Kuhle kokusho i-Ubuntu adumile abasizileko imfashini Russian. Ngokwesibonelo, French owazalelwa Rene Brizak wadala fashion house edume kunazo Petersburg. Futhi Olga Bulbenkova wadala workshop lapho benza okunethezeka ingubo lapho ngisho bathunga igqoka empresses yesikhathi. Kwakukhona okuningi abaklami eMbusweni Russian.

isiphetho

Ukuqala zenzeka ekhulwini lamashumi amabili kwaholela ushintsho oluphawulekayo endleleni imfashini. Ukwabiwa kwesikhathi kweengaba futhi oda avaliwe washintsha lula futhi adambise. Ladies wayeka egqoke corsets ungakhululekile, sigqoka baba emifushane, engasindi, ifomu esinamathelayo, nge okhalweni kancane evelele, kodwa azishintshile njengabesifazane kanye enhle ngaphansi isitayela Art Nouveau. Ngisho elula imihlobiso, kodwa izingubo Decor nezigqoko wahlala namanje ezihlukahlukene kakhulu futhi ezithakazelisayo: ezihlukahlukene lace, ubuhlalu, izimpaphe, kuze kudabuke umhlane.

Ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20, kwaba nenani eliphakeme, lapho emhlabeni wonke eyabizwa izindlu fashion ezinkulu kanye nabaqambi omkhulu, ngokusebenzisa amaqoqo zabo futhi izingubo wamshaya ozinikezele ezivela emhlabeni wonke ezaziwa.

Nokho imfashini Russian uthethe ingxenye enkulu yeYurophu, futhi imfashini European okuye eziningi Russian. Ngokwesibonelo, amajazi, zalungisa isitayela Slavic.

Sekube izinguquko eziphawulekayo, kulandele olandelayo nemfashini "yokuvukela" ekhulwini lama-20, sibonga ngalo thina namuhla ukubona izingubo kuyini ngempela: elula elula.