Edumile emhlabeni abaklami: yokulinganisela, iqoqo best

Industrial Revolution kwaholela eqinisweni ukuthi izingubo usuthandwa futhi kufinyeleleke, futhi ngokushesha uvele izingubo elite umkhakha, esibonakala by okwakhe kanye wedwa. Abaklami abadumile kakhulu kwezemfashini yingxenye isiko, okudaliwe yabo sokujabulisa izilaleli, yinto isifiso, ngisho eziqoqekayo.

Abadali of the classic kanye wesimanje imfashini brand waqala ukuba balolonge ukunambitheka umphakathi, ukuze balawule imithetho zokuphila, umthelela kumsebenzi umthengi. Bobani amakhosi sembubhiso? We bakutshele lokho edume umhlaba izingubo Abaklami baziwa izikhotha e ngezikhathi ezihlukene.

Koko Shanel

Imboni yezemfashini nakanjani iqala nge Koko Shanel. It yasishintsha umqondo imvunulo zesifazane, futhi indlela yokuphila ngokuvamile. Ngo-1909, umfundi owabe ezintandaneni uGabrielle Chanel savula isitolo, workshop ngokwenza izigqoko. Kamuva uqala ukuhlanganyela ukudalwa izingubo. Injongo yalo bubonakala ukudala ladies izingubo ukhululekile. Coco wazizwa ushintsho esithombeni ababephila ngesikhathi ukuphila futhi wafuna ukudala ingubo, lapho babekwazi uzizwa ukhululekile.

Ngo-1913, nguye ovule esitolo e Deauville, lapho kuqala iqoqo nezemidlalo. Phakathi kweMpi Yezwe Yokuqala, yena othungela izingubo ijezi. Chanel wayebuye abe isitha evuthayo corset wanikela suit ukuthi avunyelwe ladies do ngaphandle kwalesi sakhi ukunyakaza fettering. Sisivulela oyinhloko izingubo ezilula, izingubo zakhe laconic babé zabuna. Coco futhi okokuqala babegqoka ibhulukwe ekuphileni kwansuku zonke, hhayi ogibele, njengoba kwakunjalo ngaphambili. Kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, iqoqo yayo ngeke akwenze ngaphandle trouser amasudi Tweed futhi buklirovannyh ngababili: jacket + umphetho nge liyabonakala black piping, patch emaphaketheni futhi buttons ezinkulu.

Ngemva kokufa Koko Shanel 1971. Indlu fashion adalwe ke, wakwazi ukuhlala phakathi best in the world. Namuhla, uyaqhubeka silondoloze nokuthuthukisa emasikweni umdali omkhulu, ukuthuthukisa izingubo zikanokusho futhi eyinkimbinkimbi.

Cristobal Balenciaga

UMklami omkhulu Spanish wazalwa ngo-1895, eminyakeni engu-24, waqala fashion house yakhe yokuqala eSpain ngesikhathi kulwiwa, wathuthela esijana eParis, lapho waqala umsebenzi brilliant njengoba wengqephu.

Yena, ngokungafani nezinye zabuna imfashini, imukile umthungi ukuba imfashini kungenzeka senze futhi ukuthunga ingubo, hhayi nje ukudweba kuwo. Amaklayenti e-Balenciaga indlu yaba amakhanda crowned izinkanyezi: Marlene Dietrich, Grays uKelli, Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor. Bakwazisa kuye ngenxa yendlela lihle futhi isitayela, wadala yobuciko, hhayi izingubo. Cristobal uyazibona bezikhali lendwangu Bengazi ukuthi ukugqamisa ubuhle sibalo zesifazane.

Balenciaga ubelokhu eqashelwa sivumele isishaya-mthetho isitayela, yena wabizela imithetho imfashini, futhi akazange ngibalalele. Ngo-50-yalolucwaningo we womculo inikeza ihembe ngaphandle collar, kwaba okokuqala isebenzisa emahlombe sikwele.

Esikhathini 60s Cristobal kuveza umuzwa ngokuletha iqoqo izingubo, izikhwama, okuyinto zazikhululeka kakhulu futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo advantageously ukufihla sibalo amaphutha. Futhi emaqoqweni yakhe enhle kunazo zonke emhlabeni ngabona ingubo, esishwibweni, ewumngcingo ngalé igqoka, ngokuthi "umugqa owodwa". Yena invents Shirt imikhono ahlukaniswe ihembe zabesifazane, ingubo linikeza ingane-dollar owanikhipha khumbulani ozinikezele emhlabeni wonke.

Ngaphezu wamavukelambuso Balenciaga igqoka thunga amajazi okuxekethile jackets, izintokazi inikeza ukhululekile ububanzi-cut amajazi kanye ijazi nge hood. Ngasekupheleni kwawo-70-yalolucwaningo ye-master waqaphela ukuthi imfashini saphela okusezingeni eliphezulu, ukuthi amandla izindlu fashion kuthatha ukukuhlanganis. Yena enqaba bonke okunikezwayo ukuthengisa fashion house. Ngo-1972, umklami akuyona, kwakukhona kwemizamo eminingana ukuze ngivuselele brand, kodwa abazange babe nempumelelo.

Christian Dior

abaklami abadumile ngokuvamile bevela antulayo. Kodwa Christian Dior wakhulela emndenini ocebile, wafundiswa ubuciko, ufuna ukuba umculi. Umndeni waya yimali futhi kwadingeka ukuba cabanga imali isinkwa nsuku zonke. Ngo-1946, ngineminyaka engu-41, wavula imfashini endlini yakhe e-Paris. Futhi kakade 1947 ukhiphe iqoqo lokuqala wamavukelambuso New Look.

"New Look" Dior komculo umbono yowesifazane njengesizwe imbali enhle. Fashion basebephuma ukumelana zonke ezenzeka manje futhi wabuya izimiso esidlule. ingubo yakhe nge okhalweni emincane futhi ububanzi isiketi-insimbi, okwakuthatha 40 amamitha lendwangu ukuthi usenza abesifazane abakhathele of impi nzaka ukugxekwa ozakwabo. Ngakho, Koko Shanel futhi Cristobal Balenciaga Dior abasolwa ukunambitheka retrograde nokubi. Enye big hit ngokuthi imigqa ukuqalisa ukulungele-to-bafake. Kodwa Dior baqhubeka ukukhiqiza amaqoqo sokunethezeka, okuyinto baba nempumelelo enkulu.

Iminyaka engu-10 Kristian Dior uye wazakhela omunye amaqoqo 6, lwentando okwakubekelwa ayisesemikhulu okhalweni nesifazane. Ngo-1957, Christian Dior wafa, kodwa fashion house yakhe akalilahlile inkazimulo yayo kuze kube yilolu suku.

amakhosi Zanamuhla: Dolce & Gabbana

Edumile emhlabeni abaklami we engxenyeni yokugcina yekhulu lama-20, Dolce & Gabbana bagqekeza emhlabeni fashion ngo-1982. Ngaphambi kwalokhu, ilungu duo ngulowo lalowo ngendlela yabo ezweni fashion. Bahlangana endaweni Atelier elincane Milan. Ngo-1985, Dolce & Gabbana ukwethula iqoqo studio "owesifazane wangempela" sakhe futhi imnike anqobe indlela entsha imfashini. muse wabo - kuyinto imingcele a, ozethembayo owesifazane eqinile amahle nemodelnyh.

Esikhathini esizayo, abaklami baye igxile nokubukisa nokukhanya, ngesibindi sihlanganise izindwangu ezahlukene, kakhulu othanda lace. Kodwa wonke amaqoqo zabo zehluleka ukwanelisa amazinga aphezulu okunethezeka. Okunabileko yisona zabesilisa, elihlanganisa nenhle Italian isitayela, ukhanga isibindi futhi okwakhe. Kuze kube manje, Dolce & Gabbana ezikhishwe eziyisikhombisa izingubo imigqa: kusukela okunethezeka izingane lolwandle izingubo. Abanaso nginikeze isikhundla salo okuholela njengoba abaklami abadumile.

Dzhordzhio Armani

UMklami abadumile Italian Dzhordzhio Armani wazalwa ngo-1934, waqala umsebenzi njengoba umsizi ngesikhathi Cerruti futhi Ungaro.

Ngo-1975, inkampani evulwe egameni lakhe, futhi ukhiqiza jackets qoqo amadoda, lapho waives le tapering evamile futhi aqede pads ehlombe. isiqubulo lakhe - obugagu futhi engeyona inkimbinkimbi. Eqoqweni yabesifazane yena isebenzisa lathathwa izindlela fashion madoda, lidale double breast suit yasekuqaleni, okuyinto eyaba isici esiphawula leli Indlu Armani. Namuhla Armani uyaqhubeka ukuba uphathe umuzi wakhe, amakhasimende akhe - izinkanyezi ezivela emhlabeni wonke. Mark "Armani" ukhiqiza imigqa 5 izingubo, ngalinye elikwazi emelela nefilosofi yenkampani.

Givenchy

abaklami abadumile bathi Hubert de Givenchy - weqiniso Aristocrat clan abaklami. Uthatha isithakazelo imfashini kusukela zisencane, umxhwele amaqoqo izindlu fashion isikhathi. Ezwa ozakwabo kanye ephothula esikoleni of Fine Arts, futhi ngo-1952 kuvula Paris fashion house, waba umklami elicinathunjana isikhathi sakhe.

isitayela sakhe - kungcono imibala elizwakalayo mikhondo lihambisana Silhouettes elula futhi inobuntu obuhle. Ngenxa yemizamo zaseFrench Givenchy ikhabethe sima siqine ihembe nge ruffles Bettina emhlophe. Wayengumuntu stylist ozithandayo Odri Hepbern, ukudala isithombe layo eliyingqayizivele liyabonakala. Ukuze inkosi yakhe kufika ingubo-shirt futhi iqoqo izingubo elula nenhle, okuye laba uphawu kwenkathi.

Phakathi amaklayenti akhe izinkanyezi eziningi zomhlaba wonke kanye osaziwayo bakhangwa charm nokuba yinkimbinkimbi izingubo ezivela Givenchy. Ngo-1993, lapho kwakukhona Audrey Givenchy waqaphela ukuthi izwe wayeshonelwe samuntu ubufazi nobuhle bengenakwenza okunye ngoba noma ubani. Usedayise fashion house njalo iphumula.

Fashion eRussia: Vyacheslav Zaitsev

abaklami abadumile bathi IRussia charm yayo siqu esiyingqayizivele nesitayela, kanye ehlanganiswe Vyacheslav yakhe Zaitsev. Umdwebi wazalwa ngo-1938. Kusukela ebuntwaneni, uyakuthanda Umdwebo, wathola ubungcweti umklami izindwangu kanye 1962 walibangisa iqembu zokuhlola eNdlini yaseSoviet yokuthuthela onobuhle Kuznetsky Iningi.

Ngo-1979 waqala ukusebenza ngo-studio wakhe, okuyinto kamuva okwakuzoba yisikhungo imfashini ukuqamba ekhaya. Isitayela Zaitsev - nokubukisa nenhle. Wayevame isebenzisa emasikweni Russian imvunulo yesizwe ku West yakhe njengoba Russian Cardin. amaqoqo abakulo kungabonakala izindwangu ocebile, uboya, isikhumba, kwakha izingubo zikanokusho for okukhiphayo nezimvunulo usizo osukwini ngalunye. Zaitsev phakathi nenkathi yamaSoviet ukugqoka elite eSoviet Union, namuhla amaklayenti akhe - ukusungulwa Russian.

Valentin Yudashkin

Uma wenza uhlu "Famous Russian wengqephu," khona-ke emigceni kuqala kuzoba igama Valentin Yudashkin. It likhona Syndicate Eliphakeme Fashion Paris. fashion house yakhe usebenza nje kuphela eMoscow, kodwa futhi eFrance ngempumelelo. Isitayela Yudashkin - a Chic okunethezeka. iqoqo yakhe yokuqala ibonakala ngo-1987, ngokushesha ozuza udumo emhlabeni wonke. Yudashkin emaqoqweni zabo njalo uphendukela Russian indaba ephathwayo. Umklami kuyahluka uthando olukhulu umhlobiso: efekethisiwe, rhinestones, sequins, izicelo - konke lokhu kwenza kube izingubo ayakhanya futhi engavamile. Indlu Yudashkin - indawo lapho dress Russian izinkanyezi show ibhizinisi.

igor Chapurin

abadumile Abaklami izingubo amaqoqo eziye zafaka umfutho ekuthuthukiseni ikhono lokusungula abasha umklami Igor Chapurin. Umsebenzi wakhe uqale wathatha iqhaza emncintiswaneni imfashini, okwakubekelwa iwine nokubonwa ngokushesha yazuza. Ngo-1993 wakhulula iqoqo lokuqala umbhali, futhi ngo-1999 wathola "dummy Golden" leqoqo elisha. Isitayela Chapurin - i izingubo ezihlakaniphile, kudala izingubo kucabanga izintokazi oseqinile. iqoqo Chapurin sika is zihlukaniswa yinkimbinkimbi Imi kanye lula kakhulu, ukunakwa okukhulu imininingwane kanye master lokubhalela. Phakathi amaklayenti we Fashion endlini Chapurin osaziwayo abaningi elite Russian uthanda ugabise izingubo zakhe.

intsha imfashini

imfashini Famous izingubo Abaklami bayaqhubeka besebenza, imboni lukhula, edonsa amabutho amasha phakathi kwentsha. Emhlabeni wonke, fashion avant-garde usengumfana, ngisho kubantu abasha abakwazi ukuletha emhlabeni zokugqoka nemibono fresh. Modern abaklami abadumile - Stella Makkartni, Olsen nodade, Eilish Macintosh, Uliana Sergienko, Jaimee McKenna, Rassel Seydzh. Manje ukudala ikusasa, sifuna ukujabulisa emhlabeni nezixazululo ezintsha futhi ukuze ujike umbono wobuhle.