Kuyini autoblock? Njengoba obumbene ukuziqonda iyunithi: Isikimu

Autoblock banalo ezahlukene kuqhathaniswa ububanzi kwezicelo: it is ukugibela (izivakashi nezezimboni), kanye rock ekhuphuka kanye Caving, kanye nomsebenzi wokutakula. Kafushane, lapho okusweleka khona ukunikeza efinyelela okunokwethenjelwa uma ukuhluleka okungazelelwe, engeyokuqala sidinga uxhumano.

Autoblock Kunezinhlobo eziningana, ngayinye edinga ehlukile futhi olunzulu namakhono izimayini ukunitha uma kwenzeka kuphakama isimo esiphuthumayo ukwenza izinto ngendlela efaneleko. Ngemva amahhanisi yesifunda kubaluleke kakhulu obumbene ngokunembe ngangokunokwenzeka, kulokhu, ngaphandle ihaba, kuzoya ukuphila komuntu.

imithetho eyisisekelo

Autoblock banayo eziningi izici zayo ukuthi ngokuqinisekile kucatshangelwe futhi khumbula:

• Abenzi lutho kunconyiwe ku izindophi, izintambo ngaphandle ukwaluka futhi Repshnur kanye amabhande eyenziwe Kevlar, Spectra futhi Dyneema. Ukuhluleka ukwenza njalo kungaba yingozi empilweni!
• Ngokuqonda iluphu ifindo ngeke abeke yimuphi ISIZINDA ezengeziwe.
• Kunconywa ukusebenzisa indophi nge singasebenzi nganoma break 9.8 kN 7 mm ububanzi kanye 7 kN ngoba ububanzi 6 mm.
• It wagomela ngokuthi obumbene inhlangano ukuziqonda kungaba noma ikuphi inhlamvu. Nokho, abaqwali ebona sinconywa ukuhlomisa ngezansi.
• Autoblock ezingaba span ngaphansi komthwalo, ingasetshenziswa hhayi kuphela ngesikhathi sokulanda, kodwa ngaleso sikhathi sokwehla besuka endaweni ephakeme.
• indlela engcono yokuqonda lokho iyunithi isebenza uma usebenzisa intambo, libhekene ubukhulu kabili.
• It is hhayi Kunconywa ukusebenzisa noma isiphi uhlobo ukuqonda inhlangano Uqweqwe sezindophi, kusukela ngisho uma kulungiselelwa iyoba namandla slippage phezu izihibe ukwesekwa.
• I ebaluleke kakhulu kwanoma iyiphi iyunithi ukuziqonda - ikhono layo ukuze kweso zephuze uma kwenzeka ukuhluleka umthwalo, kungaba umuntu noma imoto.

Prusik ifindo

Wonke umuntu onekareko indlela yokwenza ukuqonda iyunithi kwasekuqaleni ngokuvamile Kunconywa ukuqhuba lolu hlobo. Prusik yaqanjwa kumdlali - Karl Prusik, ngokunengqondo, ubani owavela kuwo ngo-1931. Ifindo wokubopha yokunciphisa ubukhulu ka 6 kuya 7 mm emhlabeni main ikhebula noma intambo ububanzi kusukela 9 kuya ku-14 mm. Prusik ihamba ngokwaso njengoba ukunyakaza phansi noma phezulu umuntu, futhi uma kwenzeka ukwehluleka kweso some, ngaleyo ndlela linikeze Ukusabalala okuthembekile.

Okwesikhathi esithile ke Prusik kwahamba phakathi abaqwali, kodwa ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ziye zaba khona ezinguqulweni eziningana zamuva kokubili kuye kanye izingxenye bamba bebonke. Nokho, kuze kube manje kubhekwa "eziyisisekelo" futhi sesibopho ukuthobisa esifundweni.

Prusik kokuzalela ukulandelana simiswe ngalendlela lelandzelako:

• intambo esithathwayo, iluphu oyi-ifindo;
• ukuthi intambo imiswe nilimaza kathathu emhlabeni intambo core ukuze ngaphakathi iluphu;
• ekuqinisekiseni konke ophelele isivinini iluphu akuyona baprofetha nomunye elele flat, udinga qinisa ifindo.

French Prusik

Yena Marshara engeyokuqala. Kunconywa ukusebenzisa, uma ngaphambili ukuthi umthwalo oyokwenziwa kuphela kwelinye direction ethile eyaziwa. Fit inhlangano kanje:

• Intambo Okokuqala esithathwayo, okuhlelwe iluphu.
• It ke izimboze intambo core.
• Kuyinto kathathu intambo emazombezombe emhlabeni intambo main. Kuyadingeka ukuba ngokuqinile ukuqinisekisa ukuthi inzuzo ngayinye okwalandela waya eduze futhi abushelelezi kuqhathaniswa ithuba odlule.
• Lokho ingxenye intambo okushiywe khulula, is badabula iluphu futhi some ohlangothini lapho izimpahla kufanele zigodlwe.

Lendawo libhekisela ukucaca okuthiwa, ngakho ukuthatha ngokuqinile akunconyelwe kuye. Kungenzeka ukuba ziyahlukahluka inani badedelane emhlabeni intambo core njengoba kudingeka. Njengoba kunjalo nge ezivamile ukuziqonda iyunithi intambo main kumelwe nakanjani ube ububanzi enkulu kunemicebo Repshnur ukujiya. Umthetho: sisondelene intambo nomunye ububanzi, ukusebenza kanye kungakho ukuphepha French Prusik ngezansi.

node Bachman

abaqwali Abaningi imfundamakhwela abanesifiso ebambe umhlangano. Indlela obumbene ke, kodwa abantu abaziyo. Ivame Kunconywa ukuba ukuthuthukiswa okuthiwa Bachman engeyokuqala. Ugqoke igama layo kusukela umsunguli - Franz Bachmann. Njengoba i umshwalense yena lo node isetshenziswa njalo.

Ukuze tie it, enze izinyathelo ezilandelayo:

• ukwenza ingxenye ende kunazo zonke isibhamu bopho main;
• Intambo elula ngokusebenzisa carabiner, ugoba emkhatsini ukwenza ematfuba ambalwa (ngokuvamile amabili noma amathathu), carabiner primatyvaya futhi intambo omunye komunye;
• Bachmann ifindo senziwa ngokushesha njengoba umthwalo esuswa kuye, kepha walibala yini leso, kodwa ngoba umthwalo kungenzeka lushelele kancane.

Kukhona futhi yokwahluka umshwalense. Ngokwesibonelo, ingxenye-Bachmann ifindo. Nge iluphu yakhe ngombala zokuqala ezimbili noma ezintathu ihlanganisa intambo phezulu, bese kuphela (futhi 2-3 uphendulela) intambo nge carabiner elikulo.

Psevdobahman - ebambe umhlangano umdwebo simiswe ngalendlela lelandzelako: Intambo yokuqala ibandakanya intambo main ukuthi sidla ngokusebenzisa iluphu ke carabiner, njengoba kunjalo classical node Bachman. emhlanganweni omkhulu ababhekene nesimo esinje kungabaduduza ihlelwe "on the fly", ngaphandle unhooking umthwalo uqobo. Okubalulekile! Psevdobahman inikeza emvula yayo izakhiwo kuphela intambo iqine noma ikhebula. Uma Sag - lokhu node yaphulwe.

Ekugcineni, abafundi Ural Polytech psevdobahmana samuntu ezihlongozwayo lapho node iqala wesitimela esifanayo, njengoba kunjalo psevdobahmanom ezivamile bese iluphu umqhubi is abethela kuya carabiner. Node futhi okuthiwa - UPI (ibizo lesikolo), nakuba eyaziwa ngokuba umlobi wayo - A. izivakashi Yu Yagovkin..

Node ukuziqonda double

Njengoba kunjalo nezinye izinhlobo umshwalense, ngaphambi kokuba baqonde double ukuluka iyunithi, kudingeka siqiniseke ukuthi izindophi main nasizayo ziyahlukahluka ububanzi. Lokho, intambo kufanele kube ohlabayo intambo esinqunyiwe - ngokufanele ngesigamu.

Kukhona izinketho ezimbili ukuthi ungakwazi tie double ifindo ukuziqonda ukuphi. I yokuqala isikisela ukuthi uma main intambo ukubiya ahlelwe amabili inhlangano bamba ukuqhela nomunye. Ngakho, umgibeli ungaqiniseka ukuthi uma ngenxa yesizathu esithile ehluleka ukuqonda eyodwa node - umsebenzi wesibili.

Ngokusho kwenye i-samuntu, izihibe ezimbili ezincane ziboshelwa emhlabeni ngesisekelo intambo. Ngakho kungenzeka ukuhlela njengoba kabili futhi kathathu ziyalingana ukuziqonda inhlangano.

Ukuqonda komunye umkhawulo node

I-node ukuziqonda komunye umkhawulo kuboshelwe ngesikhathi uhlelo olufanayo njengoba kwenza ama-classic, kodwa hhayi threaded iluphu ezakhiwe intambo agobe, futhi kuphela komunye umkhawulo.

node Poluskhvatyvayuschy

emhlanganweni omkhulu okunjalo lifana ukuziqonda nengxenye. yokunciphisa lokuqala oboshelwe ngapha nangapha umnyombo intambo kwelinye ithuba, bese ezibekwe enye eduze kwenye usebenzisa ikhoyili enjani (kudingeka ubuke eduze ukugwema ukweqelana), futhi ekupheleni mahhala ukuthi intambo imiswe threaded ku-loop. Le yunithi akufanelanga asetshenziswe izintaba, ezokuvakasha nokunye. D. It isetshenziswa kuphela ekhaya.

Direct ifindo klemheist

Ukuze usungule oqondile ukuziqonda engeyokuqala Austrian Kunconywa eziyisisekelo isiyingi intambo ububanzi kusukela 9 kuya ku-15 mm kanti asizayo intambo ububanzi 6 kuya ku-7 mm. Kukhula umehluko ububanzi, namandla inhlangano ukuziqonda.

Intambo ekabili laqina izikhathi 4-6 intambo esinqunyiwe, ngemva kwalokho kube sekupheleni khulula thereof threaded ku-loop ohlangothini kusukela phansi kuya phezulu uqobo. emhlanganweni omkhulu okunjalo ngokuvamile kusetshenziswa izinhlobo ezahlukene yokuwela.

Ukuhlanekezela ifindo klemheist

Lapho ngombala wenziwe engeyokuqala 2-3 ikhoyili double intambo emhlabeni intambo mpo ilungiswe indlela phansi. Ukuhlanekezela iyunithi Austrian uthola isicelo yayo uqobo ngesikhathi ukunyakaza mpo, kuhlanganise njengoba yenkomo.

ikhilokhi e-othomathikhi

Isici esiphawulekayo othoma wukuthi amachopho amabili ukuthi intambo imiswe hhayi threaded ngokusebenzisa ku-loop futhi carabiner lokuvala. Umuntu kumelwe amane ukuhlukanisa kubo, futhi engeyokuqala ngokushesha likwazi ukuboshwa nokuqaqwa by the force of intambo nokunwebeka.

ikhilokhi e-othomathikhi kungcono ukusebenzisa i-umshwalense ngesikhathi yokwehla noma ummango. He is kwezinye izimo okunokwethenjelwa kakhulu futhi ephephile ngaphandle Prusik efanayo. Nokho, iphuzu elibalulekile ukuthi nokwethenjelwa autolock sixhomeke kakhulu nezinto lapho ekhiqizwa njengoba Repshnur futhi intambo main. izinto Ithanda esithambile.

amaphutha Evamile

Beginners nje ukufunda autoblock obumbene ngokuvamile ivumele amaphutha ezivame ezilandelayo:

• Phakathi ukusetshenziswa, ukuziqonda inhlangano saqala kungaba nokunciphisa node uqobo entendeni. Lokhu nakanjani kuyoholela yokuthi uma kwenzeka isandla eziphuthumayo ibuyisele shwabanisa, okuholela a engeyokuqala ehluleka, futhi phambili umthwalo kugudlukela ngqo isandla. Yiqiniso, ukuvimbela iconsi ngenxa yemizamo entendeni kungenzeki kuphela, kodwa ngoba isiphambeko igcwele usizi. Ukuze ugweme ke, akufanele ukuhambisa isandla engeyokuqala uqobo kanye edonsa intambo asekelayo.
• Naphezu kweqiniso lokuthi ulwazi mayelana ukuziqonda iyunithi iyatholakala kalula futhi kulesi sikole ekhuphuka e jikelele unikezwa isikhathi esiningi, Wabasaqalayo nokho ngokuphindaphindiwe futhi kuvumele uhlelo iphutha ezinkulu ezilandelayo: okuhlanganisa anenombolo enganele ematfuba emhlabeni core intambo, noma, kunalokho - inombolo ngokweqile. Esimweni sokuqala, kungenzeka ukuthi owodwa revolution nje abakwazi ukugcina yizimpahla runaway. A sigqoka elula kungaholela i ukuwa engalawuliwe. In the yesibili - engeyokuqala ikhiyiwe phakathi travel kuze kube Ilokhi egcwele.
• Ukusebenzisa ikholomu elilodwa isikhathi isikhathi eside. Ngisho Repshnur isikhathi eside kakhulu ngeke ekugcineni ebesengenile, ikakhulu ezimweni zokuxhashazwa okukhulu. Kufanele kube ngokucophelela ahlole intambo ngoba umonakalo ngaphambi kokusebenzisa ngakunye.
• Ngokuvamile uba umshwalense ukuziqonda inhlangano. Indlela obumbene kuye ukuba ngikhonze njengephayona okunokwethenjelwa? Kufanele kuqashelwe ukuthi ubude ukuphela khulula ezikhishwe Repshnur kumele singeqi ubude isandla sakhe. Kungenjalo, esikhathini esasibucayi awukwazi nje ukufinyelela intambo main.
• Phakathi ukunyakaza Node ukuba kwaphoqa ngesandla, kunokuba ukuhambisa isandla sakhe (bheka para. Okokuqala), noma ukudonsa emaphethelweni okubi intambo. Ukwehluleka isikhashana wesibili kungaholela ekwakhekeni ukweqelana, okuyinto kakhulu buthaka inhlangano isango.
• Ekugcineni, kufanele ulandele ngokucacile kusukela umthetho oshiwo ngenhla: ukushuba we intambo ngokuyinhloko kufanele kube ukuthi izikhathi mayelana nengxenye engaphezu kuka-ukushuba intambo. Ingamukeleki lobudlelwano, ngisho ubukhulu efanayo indophi ngeke nomthelela amandla isethi engeyokuqala.