Fashion 20 CE ekhulwini lama-20: izingubo, zezinwele, izimonyo, imigexo

1920 olubizwa ngokuthi "Roaring Yawo", "Roaring Yawo", "eko crazy", "Golden Yawo". Lena inkathi jazz art Deco kwempahla umsakazo kanye cinema, ukudansa futhi umbuthano oxokozelayo impilo ebusuku. Lesi sikhathi, abasinda impi zezwe ezibhubhisayo, sekuyisikhathi nezinguquko ezinkulu futhi kuyaqhubeka.

Yini eyaba nomthelela imfashini?

Eminyakeni engu-20 kuningi osekushintshile isikhundla social abesifazane. Uma ngaphambili, ngisho feminists baqaphela ukuthi ubulili fair kudingeke ukhethe phakathi umsebenzi nomkhaya amagugu, manje ladies wafuna ukuhlanganisa kokubili. Isizukulwane esisha abesifazane emancipated ngokuthi flepper. Ngokungafani nomama wabo futhi ogogo ababekwa ezikhuliswa izimiso uVictoria flepper baziphathe ukucindezeleka khulula: izingubo zabo ziya ziba mandla ukuthola umzimba, basuke ngokukhazimulayo zaveza walalela jazz, abayiqhuba imoto futhi yokwakha ama-career, ngibhema futhi wasina.

Ngaphezu Ukukhululwa, izwe besifazane kakhulu ukuthonywa kweMpi Yezwe Yokuqala. Lapho amadoda aya phambili, kuba abesifazane abakhungethwe kufanele ukumelela imishini e namafemu, ukumba imisele, ukuze nginakekele abalimele, ucime imililo kanye ukwenza njenge enforcers. Zonke lezi zinguquko zikhonjiswe imvelo zabesifazane, futhi ngenxa yalokho, kwi fashion Roaring Yawo.

Esikhathini ezweni of fashion umlando le nkathi kwaba ngokoqobo zaguquka. It kwenzeka izinguquko ezinkulu kangangokuba kwaba ngo-1920, ungakwazi udwebe umugqa ocacile phakathi imfashini kwekhulu le-19, okwathi yezwakala ngisho ngakho ngaphambi kwempi, futhi fashion kwekhulu lama-20. Corsets umphetho wengubo eside angahlangabezani izidingo zanamuhla wenduduzo nokusebenza, wanyamalala zezinwele nezinhlu izigqoko zelanga eziwumhelane, sigqoka Imi kuba iziqobosho kulula ukuthutha kusukela emuva esifubeni, zonke kwande ezintsha "umbani", fashion kuyinto isitayela unisex.

ingubo

Fashion 20 CE ekhulwini lama-20 wabizela a enhle entsha ukubukeka isifazane. emansipe uyiNkosikazi kumele kube ukwenzela ukungena okuncane kakhulu kakhulu, ne emincane okhalweni boyish nasesifubeni izimpawu. Kwathi kuze kube seqophelweni lokuthi abesifazane zizinhle kakhulu futhi libanjwe perebintovyvali ezihambisanayo. sibalo androgynous wasiza ukusekela umdlalo eye yaba undab 'uzekwayo flepper. Futhi ukugcizelela ukuba mncane cishe boyish futhi angularity nabizelwa ngqo ngalé ingubo. okhalweni umugqa ku izingubo onjalo kwakuyiNkosi understated kakhulu, kepha wafuna isiketi sakhe phezulu. Uma ekuqaleni we 20s kwaba obuphelele imfashini efinyelela emaqakaleni, phakathi dress inkathi akhwela kwedolo, ngisho kancane ephakeme, futhi ziyetha ekupheleni kweminyaka eyishumi. izinto ezinemikhono emide zinyamalale futhi akhale ezizibeni komzimba ngaphezulu wadalula: ucingo luvele cut-emuva.

Izwe ngemva kwempi bamukela dansingomaniya okuthiwa. Ukuthandwa umdanso lenyuke kakhulu, babe foxtrot ozithandayo kakhulu, tango kanye waltz American, blues futhi basakaza Charleston, Lindy Hop kanye jika. dansingomanii Wathonywa washintsha 20s imfashini. Izingubo, okuyinto kufanele kube lula ukudansa ubusuku bonke, ukuthola emifushane, kwaduma izindwangu shiny, flying "imisila", umphetho kanye bead efekethisiwe, izimpaphe noboya phezu imilenze - izicathulo enkantolo nge izithende. Neckline ngemuva ingxenye ifinyelela okhalweni izintokazi, izinqulu ewumngcingo ehlotshiswe neminsalo esifubeni cishe flat - umgexo multi-egqinsiwe of amapharele.

outerwear

20s babe yisikhathi zokucwaninga, imibono emisha kanye nemibono flighty. Ngaphansi kwethonya izitayela ezintsha zishintshile futhi outerwear. Uma ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20, akusona ezihlukahlukene ezahlukene izitayela, ngemva kwempi, isimo sishintshe kakhulu: amasosha owalwela kwezilwandle, walethwa ekhaya eziningi imibono emisha. Izitayela amanye amazwe kwaphoqa European futhi American abaklami ukudala amaqoqo, lapho amasiko ahlukene okwakuthandelene ziphenduka okuthile enqumayo entsha. Ngokwesibonelo, phakathi naleyo minyaka engu phezu yesikhulumi waya izimpawulo - elingenamikhono ngaphandle imikhono, eyaziwa esikhathini sethu.

Kodwa ifomu ethandwa kakhulu zokugqoka ongaphandle baba emseleni edume ( "emseleni elingenamikhono"), owenziwa eyiNgisi Thomas Bredberri. Lokhu elingenamikhono gabardine waterproof iye ngqo eyenzelwe amasosha eyathandwa kakhulu e kweMpi Yezwe Yokuqala futhi ngempumelelo kuyalinqoba yesikhulumi namuhla. elingenamikhono okusha uthwebule izingqondo ozinikezele ebhongayo eko. Ikakhulukazi abesifazane Bredberri waqala ukukhiqizwa onobuhle ngomusa kakhudlwana futhi ukukhanya izicubu zomzimba ezithambile. Trench elingenamikhono ephelele umdlalo fashion unisex, ukuhlangabezana nezidingo entsha lula nenduduzo.

ibhulukwe

Abesifazane ku-yalolucwaningo 20 ngenkuthalo kahle sphere besilisa yomsebenzi: bahlala oshayelayo kwendiza, imoto komhlambi kudlalwa ezemidlalo. Yiqiniso, imfashini 20 CE ekhulwini lama-20, kubonakala zonke izinguquko: emansipe bafake coveralls futhi indiza jackets, amadoda afaka tuxedos afake nebhulukwe. Kodwa kakhulu, mhlawumbe, emisha wamavukelambuso abe abesifazane ibhulukwe. Nakuba babengangiholeli wokukhipha ingubo ngalé ngqo, kodwa Pajama ibhulukwe elafika Europe kusukela e-Indiya, sekube abagqoka izimoto ebhishi. Ngemva kwesikhashana, lapho French umculi-umklami Zhanna Lanven eqala ukudala amaphijama nenhle izindwangu egeleza, ehlotshiswe lace, efekethisiwe nabesifazane insephe nitinikele out njengoba ayegqoke izingubo ezinjalo emigwaqweni. Singasho ukuthi amaphijama baba sibonelo we trouser suit kuqala, okuyinto oyongena imfashini kamuva.

izicathulo

Ngaphezu izingubo esifushane jazz abadansi dansingomaniya wanika Roaring Yawo enkantolo nenhle izicathulo ne izithende, ngokucebile ehlotshiswe amadayimane, ezizibeni futhi buckles. Okwavelela lokhu isihlangu-buckles abangu ezinolwebu. Inkantolo izicathulo zenani ngempela eqolo, ngakho ukuze kuvikeleke emgwaqweni owubhuqu izintokazi ufake izicathulo enjoloba ekhethekile, into efana galoshes nge-indentation kunangonyaka isithende ububanzi.

Enye hit isizini - amabhuzu aphakeme, ngokuthi Russian. imfashini bawendlala nomthelela abokufika abaningi baseRussia ababaleka phesheya emva kwempi. Inikelwe futhi ngokushesha kunciphisa izingubo zabesifazane. Ngokokuqala ngqá, "amabhuzu Russian" kwabonisa waseParis labangela ukuqala komkhakha wengqephu Pol Puare ngo-1913, liphefumulelwe uhambo lwakhe Petersburg naseMoscow.

izigqoko

Imfanelo okuphoqelekile imvunulo imfashini ku 20s Namanje izigqoko, yilokho nje sehluke ngempela. Fading ensimini frilly ububanzi, nezigqoko esilitshelwe futhi hoods. Sesinamandla udumo - isikhencezo ezimise isigqoko-Cloche-. Ukubukeka kwaso Cloche isibopho milliner French Caroline noReba, "indlovukazi" isigqoko imfashini. Isigqoko okunjalo ithungwe ngokuvamile eyenziwe wawungathi, velvet noma satin, behhashi, wazizwa noma utshani. izigqoko-avunyelwe Cloche ukufihla izinwele, babe ukhululekile futhi ezingokoqobo. Ngaphandle kwabo, ngenkathi jazz izintokazi wakhetha berets kanye amabhande asekhanda. izigqoko Kusihlwa eyinkimbinkimbi ehlotshiswe yaseZimbabwe zokuhlobisa, satin kuze kudabuke umhlane, izimbali kanye rhinestones, izimpaphe iziqhano zokuhloba.

Ngemva abasuka Russia eYurophu nase-United States emhlabeni ngokuzuma liqhumise ku fashion Western bendabuko headgear Russian - kokoshnik. Ingabizwa kufanele kubhekwe element ethandwa kakhulu imvunulo yesizwe esikhathini esiphakathi kwezimpi zezwe. Zabesifazane Fashion 20, inikeza ukugqoka kokoshnik-umqhele lomshado, futhi amakhophi uchazwe kabusha ngokukhululekile iba ingxenye ingubo kwansuku zonke. Zhanna Lanven ngisho ukhiphe iqoqo okuthiwa izigqoko isiRashiya, futhi imfashini indlu ethengiswe plastic kokoshniki.

izesekeli

Abaklami 20s ukudala zokulingisa abakhethiwe satin, velvet nosilika. A ukutholakala wangempela uba ijezi: ekhulwini le-19 ngoba bathunga zangaphansi nje plain nezingubo abantu kusukela amakilasi aphansi, ku eko ebhongayo, Wakhumula ku isinyathelo sakhe. Fur saphela ingxenye outerwear: ngiyanibingelela nonkhe-ukugqoka flepper Pestsovoye noma izikhumba Sable emahlombe oluze, kuqhakambisa yabo dress kusihlwa. Nesisekeli esisemqoka iba usikilidi eside umnini usikilidi icala futhi artsy.

Fashion 20 CE ekhulwini lama-20 bajabulela monotony izingubo, kodwa ngenxa isiphetho sabo wayenothile kakhulu. Nezingubo ehlotshiswe ubuhlalu, umphetho kanye efekethisiwe. Adume kukhona abantu Motifs: abesifazane ukhethe efekethisiwe Chinese imiklamo WasePheresiya. Ukutholakala 1922 ka ethuneni Tutankhamun e umvubukuli IsiZulu uHoward Carter kwaholela Egyptomania oye likhungethwe lonke waseNtshonalanga. Zangasese ngizile ukuze linqobe imfashini nemibala ehlukahlukene nobuntu isiko waseGibhithe, amafomu weJiyomethri yobuciko lasendulo, izinhlamvu kanye kwemifanekiso evamile, lobuhlalu izikhwama futhi feather boa.

Yiqiniso, ukuthandwa exotic abathintekayo ubuciko izinto zokuhloba nezindwangu ekhombisa kufakwe. Mhlawumbe nomhlobiso induna abesifazane 20s kukhona buhlalu amapharele. Basuke yayiboshwa izungeze intamo izikhathi ezimbalwa, futhi isihlanganisi aphansi babo base bekwazi ukufinyelela okhalweni. Ngezinye izikhathi ngokukhetha rhinestone esikhundleni amapharele. Ngaphandle ubuhlalu, izintokazi egqoka big izinwele Ukugunda futhi iziqhano zokuhloba, ezibanzi namasongo zobuzwe omkhulu namacici weJiyomethri. I fashion umqhele, Pick wakhe ngoba izembatho zebusuku. I izinsimbi ezithandwa kakhulu platinum kanye gold white, futhi le nkathi ubuciko ubucwebe ngokuthi "amhlophe".

Ngenxa fashion igqoka iDemo isidingo esikhulu mncane kasilika amasokisi obhince ibhande, okuyinto Nokho, ayengebona bangakuthengela, ngakho kunalokho ngokuvamile ukuthenga zokwenziwa. A indlela entsha izingubo zabuzwa izingubo ezintsha: ngiyanibingelela nonkhe, we 1920 wakhetha inhlanganisela esifushane, iqonde, phezulu Friend, ephethe esifubeni, usilika ibhulukwe futhi petticoats emincane.

Izinwele kanye izimonyo

Fashion alungise izinwele 20 watshela ukulahla ezinde esivuna esifushane, haircuts cishe boyish. Flepper, bavame ukukhetha isikhonzi - kwekhanda "ngaphansi umfana" of nezinwele ezimfishane. It iyaduma ngemva kokukhululwa kwe-inoveli yombhali French Victor Margherita La Garçonne ( «bachelorette") ngo-1922. Garzon ezigugile kokubili nge bang, noma ngaphandle, waphuma izinwele kusukela indlebe endlebeni futhi kwadingeka ifomu ahlukile. Kwaba kwekhanda elula elula evumela ukuthi abesifazane waphinda khombisa ukulingana kwazo nabantu.

Kodwa hhayi kuphela iDemo wathandwa izinhliziyo ozinikezele jazz inkathi. Fashion iminyaka 20-30 unikeza short izinwele wavy kanye izinyanda Lihle etholakalayo labo musa alinge ukuba ahlukaniswe. Into ebalulekile sigqoka yilezi: zazenziwe izindwangu zikanokusho, ngokucebile lihlotshiswe amapharele lace, abakhethelwa esimweni ngasinye futhi ikhabethe. Lokhu fixed ngebhandeshi ebunzini lakhe futhi sasibhekwa njengophawu lokuthi umuntu okunethezeka. Abesifazane emansipe futhi egqoka hairnets: ngaphandle umsebenzi luyingxenye zokuhlobisa, abambelela izinwele, okwakuyinto ebalulekile ikakhulukazi kusihlwa samaholide nangemidanso eziyaluzelayo.

Bright ukwakheka kuphoqelekile zonke fashionista ebhongayo eko. Ngokucophelela okhanyayo umbala ushintsho ahlotshiswe ukwakheka cinematic. Owesifazane uveza izindebe abomvu noma iwayini umbala, amadlingozi mdwebo "nomnsalo ', ngesandla esivulekile esetshenziswa powder kanye Rouge, wahosha arc ezondile amashiya. Ngokukhethekile ukhangwa amehlo fashion babe izithunzi amnyama kanye obukhulu black ezambiwa neyamanga eyelashes, ehlotshiswe ubuhlalu futhi sequins ngoba kusihlwa ekukhanyeni. Indlela entsha ukubhema ngaphandle kwemingcele edingekayo ukuze ugxile izandla, ngakho ku 1920 zibukeka ezinemibala nail sula.

fashion madoda

Ngo-1920 esethula umthetho "ezomile" e-United States, i-alkhoholi kungavunyelwe, adayise futhi kudle kulo lonke leli zwe. Kwakufanele ukunciphisa ukukhula zobugebengu, ukuxazulula izinkinga zezenhlalo ukuqinisa impilo baseMelika, kodwa zonke zaphumela ehlukile: e-United States ngenkuthalo ekuthuthukiseni inkohlakalo nokushushumbiswa. Amalungu ubugebengu obuhleliwe baba ezigebengu aziwayo. Fashion Melika eminyakeni engu-20-30 ziwela ngaphansi kwethonya layo: amadoda, belingisa isitayela ikhanda zezwe lobugebengu Al Kapone, ukugqoka amnyama amasudi double breast e pinstripe iphethini noma "herringbone", ezimbili-tone izicathulo futhi wazizwa izigqoko, suspenders nezixhumanisi cuff, izindandatho namawashi

imfashini iminyaka zabesilisa 20 popularize isitayela classic. Isudi jacket amadoda okulondoloza sika Kusolwa nge okhalweni okusezingeni eliphezulu namahlombe ewumngcingo: lokhu usike ngalé zibukeke sisalokhu. Jazz boom nomthelela ukusabalala igama elifanayo isudi ne ibhulukwe ewumngcingo nebhantshi owufanelekela. Enye mkhuba, aphuma Oxford - ebanzi yefulaneli ibhulukwe. Baqala ukugqoka ukufihla amasokisi yabasubathi zingena ngaphansi nomyalo oqinile ukuthi. Tailcoat kancane kancane liyancipha ku esidlule, esikhundleni sakhe iza Tuxedo mfushane.

imfashini Russian

Akukona nje kuphela West wathinta wamavukelambuso fashion entsha iminyaka engu-20. Russia - noma kunalokho, kakade eSoviet Union - ubezama ukuhambisana izitayela global sihlunge zize kuleli zwe, lapho kwakungekho "yensimbi kwesihenqo". Ngalesi sikhathi, kwasivulela lokuqala eSoviet Union "Workshop ka imvunulo wesimanje." Russian nawaseSoviet wengqephu Nadezhda Lamanova eyalwa ukudala fashion isisebenzi-nabalimi abancane, kodwa inqobo ngendwangu ezishibhile indawo. A kamuva wadala "Couture" ngezinye ekuchithweni kwayo brocade, velvet, usilika, batholakele bohlu lozalo abathutha.

Nep eSoviet Union indawo kokubhubhisa nobumpofu sathandwa imibono avant-garde futhi izinhlelo constructivist emoyeni. Abesifazane be-USSR, njengoba in the West, nayo ayethanda sibalo boyish, sigqoka okuxekethile, izigqoko nezinto zokuhloba. Ayefaka ibhulukwe, ngenkuthalo ngibhema ambamba nokwenza ezemidlalo. fashionista Izinwele Soviet lifushane kakhulu sheared, kodwa, ngokuphambene kwabesifazane Melika nawaseYurophu, babethanda hhayi ukoma. Avant usanda kwethula lento imfashini nomhlobiso weJiyomethri adorning izingubo besifazane. Constructivists izingubo yasendlini wayiqeda nyá ukuthi eyayidingeka izicubu ezingadingekile - abese eyishutheka, pleats futhi cuffs.

Mhlawumbe, ekhulwini leminyaka elidlule kuze kwaba hhayi eyishumi owodwa uma imfashini washintsha kakhulu kangaka eminyakeni embalwa nje. Fashion 20 CE ekhulwini lama-20 - into isuke ibangelwa ukuzalwa izitayela ezintsha ngokuphelele, izitayela kanye izitayela.